Bruce Bottomley and a couple of his old surfboards.

I met Bruce while looking for a single fin surfboard. The 6 1/2 footer on the right is called The Master, Bruce says it was his first surfboard and he’s had it ever since. Its in awesome condition considering its age. Water tight with many repairs that he did himself. He shared stories about surfing spots in and around the South Bay of Los Angeles where he rode the board in places I’ve never heard of and need to investigate. He hooked me up with the board and I snapped a few pics before heading off into the sunset. I haven’t taken the board into the water yet, but will soon. Its a sick shape and perfect size for these mushy summer Southern California waves.

Editor’s note (July 18, 2011): Today I took the board out in peaky glassy 1-3′ foot waves in Sunset Beach, California and it handled like a champ.  I forgot how rad those early morning sessions can be with no wind and glassy conditions.  Totally insane and a great way to start the day.